Smoking is very common in Bulgaria and non-smoking sections in restaurants are extremely rare. A new law is set to change this in 2005, but the question mark over how effectively it will be implemented. Bulgaria is always near the top or the top country in the world for smoking.

Most large cinemas show films with their original soundtracks and sub-title them. The same applies to rented videocassettes. However, films for children are usually dubbed. The Sofia Echo is an English language newspaper available in the Black sea and main cities and it carries weekly cinema listings.

Large supermarkets such as Billa, Metro and Fantastico and electrical appliance shops such as Technopolis and Technomart offer a wide range of local and imported products. In smaller shops, the standard and friendliness of service tends to vary. In the main I have found staff to be friendly and helpful although the ability to speak English cannot be taken for granted you usually can find someone to look after you.

An important thing to note is that when Bulgarians nod their heads up and down, they mean NO. When they move their heads from side to side, they mean YES. Although this does not apply to everyone, particularly young people, it can cause confusion.

Wedding bands are worn on the right hand, not the left as in the West.

Corruption continues to be a problem, so beware, even of the police. Always carry the number of your embassy/consulate and lawyer, just in case. I have heard of cases of foreign drivers being asked to pay money to the police without understanding why. Although it is not usually much, maybe 10 or 20 leva (about £3.50 to £7) it is still annoying when you have done nothing wrong

If you are not staying in a hotel you are expected to register at the local police station using the address of where you are staying. It might be useful to obey this law regarding the registration of foreigners, because seemingly it is being applied with increasing eagerness. Failing to register within 48 hours of arrival can mean heavy fines and other hassles. If you are staying in a hotel they do this for you so you do not have to worry about it

When paying for something in a restaurant or shop, do not expect to always get the correct change. It is common practice to “round up” the sum, and not in your benefit.

Credit card acceptance is still very rare outside the big hotels seemingly because of a lot of fraud although ATM’s are everywhere and normally it is easy to withdraw money from them. The usual warnings about using ATM’s apply as there have been reports of ATM fraud. Make sure you carry enough cash for your needs.

Tipping is optional but becoming increasingly standard practice. About 10 per cent to 15 per cent is customary. Watch out for the usual antics of taxi drivers with foreigners and try to use OK Taxi Company if you can.

 Name Days are celebrated in addition to birthdays. A Name Day is celebrated by people whose name is derived from that of a Saint’s Day being celebrated. The person having a Name Day usually brings confectionery to the office for colleagues to share. Bulgarian tradition is that one may call uninvited on a person celebrating a Name Day, to wish them well.

If you wish to buy flowers for a Bulgarian you should be aware that it is considered bad luck to give an even number except for a funeral. Florists know this and adjust accordingly. However I have bought the traditional dozen red roses and it was received with great joy. It is after all, just a superstition and not all Bulgarians are superstitious.

Making a toast when drinking alcohol is normal. What is recommended if you are not to appear rude when toasting, is to raise your glass and lightly clink it with all the others present, while looking the people with you in the eye and saying, “nozdrave” which means good health to you. Unfortunately if there are 10 people at the table, you are expected do this with all 10. Again young people are abandoning the practice

Toilet facilities are much improved compared to 10 years ago, but can be off-putting, particularly in older establishments and outside the larger cities. Most modern fuel stations, restaurants, hotels and bars have facilities of an acceptable standard. But elsewhere you may be confronted by nothing more than a hole in the floor, and no toilet paper. Always carry Kleenex with you. Places often charge for the use of toilet facilities, currently usually in the 20 to 50 stotinki range.